Carrion de los Condes To Terradillos de los Templarios

Day Thirty Five. 27.8 K., 17.3 Mi. (my pedometer).

Written on June 3, 2014.

We stayed at Hostal Santiago in Carrion de los Condes. It was a beautiful room and we received great service! In the morning as we were leaving we noticed that the way out was through the bar and not through the gate. If you love your coffee in the morning like Vern and Angel this works well.

Today we are walking on the Calzada Romana, also known as the Calzada de los Peregrinos.

Most of the walk today is on the Calzada Romana.

From the first moment we started walking on April 30th Angel has been helping people from all over the world. She will observe something out of place or that needs adjustment on their backpacks. She is good about sensing whether the time or place is appropriate to approach the Pilgrim. She has helped many people! Today she received a kiss for her efforts.

Angel checking the adjustments to a Pilgrim's backpack.

Yesterday I heard someone walking away from Angel saying very loudly, “perfect, perfect”!

Today Chris asked me if I had seen the couple on bicycles who just got married. My first thought was, “this is pretty cool, people know that I'm writing a blog and now are giving me tips”!

Newlyweds' bicycles.

The newly weds, Jesus and Natalia, as they rode by me.

My favorite waymarker on the Camino!

 

Cee To Fisterra

Day Sixteen. 15.3 K., 9.5 Mi.

Written on May 15, 2014.

Cee is a beautiful town to be walking through in the early morning. There is a hill to climb while we were still waking up. It is warm and clear. Not well marked but Vern remembers the way to go from our 2012 walk.

Our shadows on the road.

Kathy, Angel, and Vern on the way to Fisterra.

It's great to see Fisterra!
Vern, Paul the Pilgrim Greeter, Angel, and Nancy.
Thanks to Paul, a Pilgrim volunteer from the U.K. who had information and a place to sit on the way into Fisterra.

Soon after we met Paul we were checking into our rooms. We had something to eat and took a nap. It is now time to walk the 3.5 K. to the lighthouse.

Vern, Nancy, Kathy, and Angel at the 0,00 marker.

A better look at the marker.

Kathy, Vern, and Angel at the “end of the world”.

As we walked down the hill from the lighthouse we met Erik from Belgium. Erik is knowledgeable about the area and the history.

Vern, Erik, Nancy, and Kathy.

We couldn't resist this photo for Angel's surfer brother!

My Fisterra Compostela.

 

Santiago de Compostela To Negreira

Day Thirteen. 22.4 K., 14 Mi.

Written on May 12, 2014.

Back on the Camino. Six miles to coffee……Alto do Vento. Great place to stop. Many Pilgrims stopped here, also. Some time after our coffee break we began the climb up Trasmonte. There were several times that I thought I was almost to the top. Soon I told myself that the top would be at least two miles more. This helped me when the top was much closer.

The first Camino De Fisterra sign.

Shell fence on the way to Negreira.

Puente Maceira is one of my favorite places on the way to Fisterra. In 2009 Vern and I stayed there in a room overlooking the waterfall. Now it is a restaurant and does not rent rooms.

Angel on the Roman bridge over the Rio Tambre.

The beautiful River Tambre.

A hydro gristmill in Puente Maceira.

 

Padron To Santiago de Compostela

Day Eleven. 24.9 K., 15.5 Mi.

Written on May 10, 2014.

Before we left the Albergue I looked outside: this is a headlamp morning. It was 6:00 a.m. and dark. I feel good and pretty organized. My mantra as I'm packing my backpack is: light, heavy, light. Packing light on the bottom: sleeping bag, flip flops for shower, sleeping mask, headlamp, etc. next is water bladder with one liter of water, iPad, supplements, etc. toward the top of my bag is lightweight jacket, envelope of important papers, etc. my bag has two compartments that flip over the top. Those compartments have sunscreen, lip balm, buff for my neck/head, pen, etc.

We walked for about two hours. I saw that Vern, Angel, and Kasie had stopped. Angel was asking a cafe owner if the cafe was open. Next thing we knew he was opening the doors and turning on the lights! Yes, the first coffee of the day.

Vern, Eduardo, and Angel.

We saw Daniel walking up the road toward us. Soon Donal was with us…shortly after: Kirsten. Eduardo is a good business man. Soon after he opened the doors his son came downstairs looking very sleepy. They served cake that we did not order and turned on rock'n roll to listen to.

Kathy, Vern, Nancy, Donal, Daniel, Angel, Kasie, and Kirsten.

A few hours after the coffee stop we saw a sign that we didn't understand but followed a well worn path. Later some walkers told us we were going the wrong way.

I named this the b*** s*** sign.

Vern and I love the Dos Marias. The story that we heard is that they were two sisters who loved to walk in the Alameda area of Santiago sharing smiles and hugs with students.

Kasie, Nancy, Kathy, Vern, Angel, and Libor with statues of the Dos Marias.
The path in from Camino Portugues goes right by the Hostal Alameda where we are staying. We stopped to check in and then continue on to the Oficina de Peregrinos to receive our Compostela. I felt strange about going to the office without my backpack. I kept it with me just long enough to receive the Compostela.
My Compostela showing my Latin name.

In front of the Cathedral after receiving my Compostela.

 

Porrino To Pension Jumboli

Day Seven, 19.2 K, 11.9 Mi.

Written on May 6, 2014.

Today we walked from Porrino to Pension Jumboli just north of Redondela, Spain.

The view from Pension Jumboli.

The way marking in Portugal and now in Spain on the Camino Portugues has been exceptional. There are very few opportunities to get lost. The waymarkers are creative and distinct.

Yellow arrow and yellow “clam shell”.

I have mentioned Donal in a previous blog and what a help he was in getting information about where to walk from to receive a Compostela for the Camino Portugues.

Kathy, Nancy, Donal, And Angel.

 

Finisterre to Muxia

Day Eighty Three. 19.1 Miles, 30.8 Kilometers.

Total miles walked from Le Puy-en-Velay, France to Muxia, Spain= 1,046.5. Total Kilometers= 1,683.0.

Total days on the Camino= 83. Total days walking = 76. Total Rest Days= 7.

Written on July 11, 2012.

We began walking on the Chemin de St. Jacques in Le Puy-en-Velay, France on April 20, 2012. At St. jean Pied-de-Port, France and into Spain the route is referred to as The Camino de Santiago, The Way, The Way of St. James, etc. The “Path” goes through every kind of terrain imaginable and most weather conditions. We have experienced views from brilliant to mundane to desolate with an unmistakeable beauty. Two days ago we walked along an ocean for the first time in months. It has been an incredible journey. It feels so appropriate to be walking the last several miles in view of an ocean (Atlantic). Walking through eucalyptus groves, by the sea, and through seaside villages, this is the grand finale to a grand walk. We are now seeing a new waymarker indicating a new region.

Dolphin, Camino Arrow Waymarker, and “M” for Muxia.

On the way to Lires, a coastal village, marking the half way point to Muxia we see Albert and Ingrid. We stop at the only building for miles, a bar, situated on a bluff with a great ocean view. It is a requirement to get a sello in Lires on the way to Muxia in order to receive a Compostella in Muxia. After a rest in the bar we proceed to Lires, get a stamp, visit with a couple of Pilgrims and continue toward Muxia.

I was looking forward to the stepping stones in the river that I had heard so much about. When we arrived at the spot a new bridge had been built.

Stepping stones in Rio Castro.

New bridge in Rio Castro.

Not far from Lires we saw a man and woman with a plow hooked up to a donkey. They were both shouting commands in Spanish to the donkey. He seemed to be responding well to what they were saying.

A couple plowing their field near Lires, Spain.

Another three or four miles of walking and I heard Vern talking to someone ahead. When I got there I saw that it was Dan and Ellen. We have been seeing them on a regular basis. They are the first pilgrims we have met that live so close to us. (2-1/2 hours).

Vern, Ellen, Me, and Dan.

I love it when I see a first: I mean a first pilgrim pulling a cart, a first pilgrim smoking a pipe, and today the first young Pilgrim on a bicycle!

A Pilgrim from Italy, his Mom is not shown.

At last we are in Muxia!! We are anxious to get to the tourist office and receive our third Compostela, then we can visit the church, the famous rocks along the coast, and other Pilgrims.

Today marks the end of our walking. Muxia is our geographical destination, but as I now know, for myself, the Camino de Santiago journey is the actual destination. The destination is the deep loving connection with Pilgrims, all humans, and all animals. It is the intention and effort to avoid stepping on ants, beetles, etc. it is the respect of myself and of others to leave “no trace”, etc.

My third Compostella of the Le Puy-en-Velay, France to Muxia, Spain Route.

The view walking into Muxia.

We are excited to see this sign!

Church at the headland Santuario da Virxe da Barca.

Me and Vern just after arriving at Muxia!

A few days ago we met and walked for awhile with Miguel from Colombia. It was wonderful to spend time with him in Muxia. Thanks for the photo of Vern and I on the rock!

I will continue this blog, creating postings throughout our trip home.

Rest Day Finisterre

Day Eighty Two.

Written on July 10, 2012.

There are many places to have a cup of coffee this morning and a light breakfast. We chose a cafe near the water. As soon as we walked in it was a time for celebration and reunion! We saw Catarina and Gloria.

Catarina, Vern, Me, and Gloria.

We wanted to spend some time together so we decided to take a walk out to the lighthouse. There are many Pilgrims walking toward the lighthouse, many we have not seen before. It is a beautiful, clear day in Finisterre. We soon met up with Mairead and stopped at a market for water and a chocolate bar. The 12th Century Romanesque Church, Igrexa de Santa Maria das Areas, (Our Lady of the Sands), is on the way.

A statue of Saint Roch and his dog inside Our Lady of the Sands Church.

As we are walking to the lighthouse Gloria and Catarina walk to a hill not far from the lighthouse. Mairead, Vern, and I continue up to the lighthouse and spend time visiting with other pilgrims. I reflect on what Finisterre, (The “end of the world”), means to me. I had spent time considering this thought while walking and discovered that walking to Finisterre is a symbol for me. The symbol is: I can't believe what I think. What I mean by this is: In Medieval times it was believed that the world was flat. Finisterre has its name, The End Of The Earth, due to this belief. What beliefs do I have that will be discounted next year or next century?

The view from Finisterre.

This is such a meaningful day! We walk to the waymarker that reads 0,00 K.M.

Vern and I at the 0,00 K.M. Waymarker.

A better look at the 0,00 K.M. Waymarker.

We walk for a few minutes back toward Finisterre and a miracle! We see the California boys and Perrogrino. We haven't seen “The Boys” in a few days. We have heard about Perrorgrino but have not seen him since June 28th in Villafranca del Bierzo. He has walked at least 469 Kilometers, almost 300 Miles, (that we know about). We think that the first time he was seen walking was from Terradillos de Los Templarios.

The California Boys and friends with Perrogrino.

Perrogrino.

A very eventful day! I was in our room and Vern brought Sophia to visit, another Pilgrim we have not seen for a few weeks.

Thomas is having a birthday tomorrow and has invited Albert and Ingrid from Holland, Vern and I to help him celebrate while we are all in Finisterre together. We are glad to spend time with them. Thomas found a wonderful restaurant with a great view. Happy Birthday tomorrow Thomas!